How to Photograph Small Things

1:1 macro of a dung fly, by Luc Viator.The world of macro photography[1] is a fun one to explore. You can use your camera to see levels of detail that the human eye rarely (or never) does, whether that's shooting super-close-ups of insects, or photographing the intricate detail inside a flower, or maybe just photographing a piece of jewelery. Here's how you and your camera can start exploring the world of the tiny.

Steps

1. Get the right lens for your camera. If you're shooting a digital SLR and you've got the money, go and buy a dedicated macro (1:1) lens for your camera and forget about the rest of this. If you don't, there are other, cheaper options which give pretty reasonable results if you're not looking too hard. Several options exist to shift the lens further from the film plane (which means that you can focus to much closer distances, letting you get closer to your subject than you would otherwise).All of these cheapskate methods are imperfect; they effectively increase your focal length (which means less light hitting your film or sensor for the same aperture setting on the lens, meaning longer shutter speeds, making it harder to freeze motion and making camera shake a problem). They usually require your lens to be operated fully manually (an old, cheap, manual-focus lens with a manual aperture, such as many M42 lenses, are just about ideal for this). It means operating your lens far outside of the conditions for which it was designed, which will usually mean some optical degradation. You also won't be able to focus to infinity with any of these combinations. Nevertheless, it will result in infinitely better photos than you'll get with a lens you don't own.(If you're using a compact (point-and-shoot) camera, you can happily ignore all of this; the very short focal lengths and generous depth-of-field of such cameras make them ideal for close-up work, right out of the box.)
   • A bellows is more useful than any of the improvised methods for moving the lens further forward because it allows you much more precise control over how far you're shifting your lens forward. It also, typically, costs more money. Almost any bellows will be usable on almost any SLR, regardless of lens mount (just use a cheap, glassless adapter), so go for whatever is cheapest.
     • Some big cameras have built-in bellows.
   • Extension tubes are a very cheap, though less flexible, way of doing this. You don't even need proper extension tubes to do this; you can, for example, rip the optics out of a bunch of cheap teleconverters and stack these as needed.[2] Alternatively, you can roll your own extension tubes if you're really cheap.
   • A reversal ring might be sillier than the other methods -- it means working your lens backwards, which may have weird results.
   • One or more of a set of "close-up lenses" can screw in to the filter thread. These are convenient but optically poor (get a cheap used set, which probably won't be any worse than a new set), even compared to lens extensions. If you're stacking them, put the most powerful (biggest number) one on first.
2. Get a tripod if you're shooting things that don't move. This will allow you to use slower shutter speeds, and consequently, lower ISOs (for less noise) and smaller apertures (for more depth of field) The cheapest, plastic tripod will be fine for a compact camera.
3. Set up your camera. A few important adjustments will make for much better close-up photos. Don't sweat it if your camera doesn't have any of the settings mentioned. Check your manual (or experiment) if you don't know where to find these settings.
   • Switch your camera to macro mode if you're using a compact camera. This is usually indicated by a flower icon on your mode dial. Don't use this mode if you're using a digital SLR; on at least some Canon digital SLRs, for example, this will be worse than useless, in that it's more-or-less equivalent to point-and-shoot noob-mode -- disallowing changing the aperture, popping the flash without asking, and so on. Instead, switch it to aperture priority (Av on Canon, A on Nikon) on such cameras (which you'll need to do if you're using any of the improvised-macro-lens methods). If you've got a dedicated macro lens designed for your camera, programmed automatic (P) works fine, too, if it allows you to shift the program.
   • Kick up the ISO as far as you dare if you're hand-holding. It was said earlier, but don't hand-hold unless you have no choice in the matter. If you have to, a higher ISO will allow you to use smaller apertures than you would otherwise (giving you more depth of field). Set it to the lowest ISO you have if you're photographing things that don't move from a tripod.
   • A built-in flash isn't usable as-is. The best solution is to use a macro ring flash (and if you're the kind of person that has one, you probably don't need to read any of this). The simplest solution is to turn off the flash. Other things you can try are one or more regular flashes off-camera, connected with cords or wirelessly, aimed at the subject from a distance to avoid overexposure from even their minimum power setting, bouncing flash off a ceiling or card, or even trying to bounce the built-in flash off a card down toward the subject.
   • Set a small aperture on your camera (or lens). Depth-of-field is very shallow, often a few millimeters or less, as you get very close to things. More than likely, you'll want to use the smallest aperture you have; defocus is a much greater worry than the diffraction effects caused by very small apertures (and can be harder to compensate in software). It'll also eliminate any corner unsharpness, spherical aberration, light fall-off, and some chromatic aberrations that come from shooting most lenses at their widest aperture. Try to arrange your subject in a plane perpendicular to the lens: for instance, generally take a picture of a bug more from the side or top rather than face-on.
   • Enable your mirror lock-up and self timer, if you're shooting in controlled conditions on a tripod. Mirror lock-up will result in less vibration from your camera's mirror (if you're using a digital SLR), and the self-timer will give physics a chance to damp the camera movement caused by you pressing the shutter button. This will result in sharper pictures, particularly if using a longish exposure without a flash.
4. Set your subject on a plain background, if you're under controlled conditions.
5. Set up your camera on your tripod and get as close as you possibly can to get your subject to fill your frame.
6. Take your pictures and check for correct exposure (things not being lost in shadow, no blown highlights) on your LCD. Use exposure compensation if you have this problem (or if you're shooting fully-manual, as you may have to with some cameras when using improvised methods, adjust your shutter speeds and apertures manually until it looks right).
7. Get the pictures onto your computer and check for focus problems (if you get them, focus manually, or use an even smaller aperture). Crop your picture as tightly as possible in your favourite image editor. Show your pictures off to the world!

Video 

 

Tips

• Some compact cameras might hunt for focus and never find it (or find it on something that isn't your subject). You can get around this by placing a larger object with details on which the camera can focus, such as a business card, at the same distance as your subject, focusing on that, then locking the focus there. 

      

Things You'll Need

• A camera, film or digital. Any of them will do fine.
• A plain background of some kind if you're shooting under controlled conditions.
• Other equipment is detailed in the steps above.  

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Related wikiHows

• How to Shoot Macro With a Compact Digital Camera
• How to Shoot Macro Using a Reversal Ring
• How to Create a DIY Extreme Macro Tube
• How to Develop Your Photography Skills
• How to Take Sharp Photographs
• How to Shoot Macro Shots Without a Macro Lens
• How to Determine Your Macro Magnification
• How to Improve Your Macro Photography With a Macro Light Box

Sources and Citations

1. ↑ More properly, this should be called "close up" rather than "macro"; the definition of "macro" is that the "image projected on the "film plane" [...] is close to the same size as the subject", which it isn't on small-sensored digital cameras.
2. ↑ See The £30 improvised macro lens, by Lewis Collard.

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How to Write Good Captions in Photojournalism

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
Photojournalism is an exciting take on journalism- instead of communicating with words, you use images. You know what the old saying is: "A picture is worth a thousand words." But words are involved- how can we use them best in writing captions? These steps can help you to be a good journalist.

Steps

1. Find the photo you are going to write the caption for. Look at it, and find the thoughts that you are trying to communicate via this picture. How is it relevant to the article or topic? Write this down (just quick notes, no need for complete sentences). For best results.
2. Using the main idea of the picture, write a simple sentence that sums up everything that is happening in it. If one sentence is not enough, use two. (Three is pushing it, so stay short.) For example, if your photograph were of a baby giraffe, you would write, "A giraffe calf with its mother."
3. Add to the sentence(s) where this is taking place. You can keep it short or be descriptive. To add to your giraffe sentence, you would write, "A giraffe calf with its mother at the crowded Zoo."
4. Add a little detail. Describe the main "character(s)" of the picture, or throw in an interesting fact or statistic that complements the topic. To your giraffe sentence, you would write, "A lanky newborn giraffe calf with its samson mother at the crowded Zoo."
5. What is happening in the picture? Throw in some action to spice things up. For example, your sentence would now be, "A lanky newborn giraffe calf stumbles around its enclosure with its mother at the crowded Zoo."
6. You're done! Polish off your sentence and fix any possible spelling or grammatical errors, and you're as good as gold. This is one prize-worthy sentence! 

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Related wikiHows

• How to Advertise Your Photography Business
• How to Add a Photo to Your Google Site
• How to Develop Your Photography Skills
• How to Create a Photography Portfolio with Posterous

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If You Are One Of Them Who Want To Take Better Photographs You Are On Right Way

How to Compare Digital Cameras: 14 steps

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
As digital camera technology has improved, lower prices on all types of digital cameras have made keeping up with the latest camera designs and features a viable pursuit for many people. Digital cameras are popular purchase for everyone from casual users to highly skilled hobbyists. Because every shopper has different priorities, you should compare digital cameras based on your own preferences and expectations for how you will use your new camera. These expectations might include the amount of control you have as the photographer, the resolution quality of the photographs you take, the size of the camera and a host of additional features offered by many new camera models.

Steps

Choose Point-and-Shoot or SLR

1. Casual camera users typically prefer the compact size and easy usability of point-and-shoot digital cameras, which have automatic focus and flash options.
   • Additional point-and-shoot advantages typically include red-eye prevention and removal, automatic exposure adjustment, automatic face detection and digital movie.
2. SLR cameras are ideal for photography hobbyists and professionals, and now come in several price ranges that are more accessible to the hobby buyer. Look for base-level digital SLR cameras for as low as $500 to $700, while mid-range dSLR cameras are typically priced over $2,000. For example here is a very good and popular camera from Amazon:

Select a Resolution

1. Casual point-and-shoot users are typically satisfied with a 7 megapixel resolution, which is standard for most digital cameras today.
2. For sleeker, more cutting-edge technology, look for 10 megapixels or more in your point-and-shoot camera. This level of camera usually includes the option to record digital video at 720p resolution, which is high definition.
3. Rather than worrying about too few megapixels when you compare digital cameras, concentrate more on not getting too many megapixels for your intended use.
   • If you want to email or post pictures online, 10 megapixels will likely be too large a file size, and you will need to be able to take photos at a more compressed size.
   • If you will need to crop and blow up small portions of pictures, 10 or 15 megapixels would be a more useful resolution for your digital camera.

Compare Compact Sizes

1. Digital SLR cameras tend to be about the same size as standard SLR cameras, and require a camera bag for additional lenses.
2. Digital point-and-shoot cameras come in a number of highly compact designs. For the most compact options, look for the following features:
   • Retractable zoom lenses or no zoom
   • Compact or retractable flash
   • Sliding lens covers or face covers for the entire camera
   • Touch-screen LCD displays that consolidate controls and viewfinders

Find the Features You Want

1. Several zoom options exist for digital camera comparison. Fixed focal-length lenses offer no ability to zoom in or out, while retractable and fixed zoom lenses offer manual zoom controls while shooting. Interchangeable lenses are more commonly found on digital SLR cameras.
2. Some digital cameras utilize alkaline batteries, which have to be regularly replaced as with any battery-operated device. Others use model-specific rechargeable lithium or nickel batteries that last several years, but may also need to be replaced after many recharges.
3. LCD screen size can also be a factor in comparing cameras. Many digital cameras include a screen size of at least 2 to 2.5 inches (5 to 6.35 cm) for viewing pictures, but larger screen options may be 3 inches (7.62 cm) or more.
4. Many compact cameras are increasingly offering touch screen LCD screens, which allow for a more compact design that includes controls in the same space as the viewing screen.
5. If you are a photography hobbyist, a priority when you compare digital cameras is likely the in-camera editing options. Many cameras, particularly newer models of all types and sizes, offer additional in-camera editing features that include red-eye removal, refocusing, zooming, cropping and even stitching photos together to create a panoramic shot.
6. For outdoor enthusiasts, another factor may be the presence of an environmental seal. Cameras with environmental seal features keep dirt and dust out of the lens and body of the camera, and may are also water resistant.
7. If you want to add filters or converters, you don't necessarily need a SLR. Some cameras accept adapters.

Tips

• Remember to check what camera accessories are included with your camera or will need to be considered and compared separately, such as camera bags or cases, memory storage and software.

Related wikiHows

• How to Make the Most of Your Digital Camera
• How to Select the Right Digital Camera
• How to Take a Picture with a Digital Camera
• How to Care for Your Camera
• How to Take Better Photographs

Sources and Citations

• http://reviews.cnet.com/digital-cameras/
• http://reviews.cnet.com/digital-camera-buying-guide/
• http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare.asp
• http://www.betterphoto.com/reviews.asp
• http://www.digital-camera-buyers-guide-and-tips.com/

[de:Wie man Digitalkameras vergleicht]]

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Compare Digital Cameras. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Now You Can Take Better Photographs Like a Pro

How to Mat Photos

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Mat can add visual appeal and dimension to a photo, and come in a wide range of colors and sizes. Once you attach a photo to the mat with your choice of adhesive, you can choose to either display the photo as-is or frame it.

Steps

1. Pick a mat size. You can customize photo mats to any measurement specifications you want. However, if you want to frame the matted photo, you may want to cut the mat's outer perimeter to fit a standard-size frame. If you choose to mat a photograph with a unique-size mat, you will need a custom frame.
   
2. Cut a mat board piece to your specifications. Use a ruler to draw straight lines on the mat board to dimensions of your mat's outer perimeter. Cut the board using a mat cutter or razor knife.
   
3. Measure and mark an opening for your photo. Do this on the backside of the mat board. Make the opening 1/8 inch smaller than your photo, to ensure that the photo's edges are covered.
   
   • Use a T-square to make sure your frame edges are straight. Trace the edges of the square at each corner, then connect the lines using the straight edge of the T-square or a ruler.
     
   • You can center the frame opening, or locate the photo at the top, bottom or one of the sides of the mat. Leave more edging on one side for artistic effect, or to make room for a caption or title tag.
     
4. Cut an opening in the mat board for your photograph. Use a ruler as a guide and slowly cut through the mat board with a razor knife or mat cutter, making sure to completely penetrate the mat. Place a scrap piece of mat or cardboard under the mat so you don't cut the surface you are working on.
   
5. Attach the photo to the mat. Lay the mat upside down on a flat surface. Lay your photo upside down on top of the mat so that the image is centered over the open space. Tape the photo to the mat with clear adhesive tape.
   
   • Use as little tape as possible on the photo. To much tape will ripple the photo in the frame.
     
6. Mount the matted photo to display it without a frame. Place pieces of double-sided tape at the corners on the back of the mounted photo. Press the mat down on top of the mounting board to ensure the tape adheres.
   
   • If you want to display a matted photo in a frame, you do not need a mounting board.
     

Tips

• You can add more than one mat to a photo to give it a layered effect. Choose mats in different colors or textures. Tape the smallest mat to your photo, then continue attaching larger mats behind the original mat with double-stick tape.
  
• Save time when matting a photo by buying a pre-cut mat. Many hobby and craft stores sell standard size mats in varying colors.
  

Things You'll Need

• Photograph
  
• Photo mat
  
• Mat cutters or razor knife
  
• Adhesive tape
  
• Double stick tape
  
• Mounting board
  

Sources and Citations

• http://www.foldedspace.org/archives/001873.html
  
• http://scrapbookingcraft.org/how-to-mat-a-photo-in-5-simple-steps.html
  
• http://www.artsupply.com/logan/howtocutamat.htm
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Mat Photos. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to Be Photogenic

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit


Do you dislike having your picture taken because you always seem to come out looking hideous? Have you ever felt jealous of your friend who always comes out flawless in photos? What’s the deal with pictures? While being photogenic just comes naturally to some people, there are a few things that anyone can do to look better in photos. Try out the tricks in this article and stop running for cover whenever the camera comes out.

Steps

1. Being photogenic refers to the ability of appearing very attractive in photos.[1] It is important to grasp that being naturally beautiful or striking does not necessarily translate to being photogenic in photos. Being photogenic is about awareness of how to put your best self forward, and knowing how to express your charisma for the camera. These are learned techniques, including applying your knowledge of the best backgrounds, lighting, and positioning for a good photo. In fact, it's not unusual for "Miss Photogenic" to be a different person from "Ms Beauty Queen" in beauty pageants because the photogenic subject has learned how to work the camera best.[2]
   
   • Aim to learn the following techniques so that they become second nature and you cease to be conscious of using them and just "do it".
     
   • The more opportunities you have to practice in front of the camera, the better.
     
   • The two dimensional nature of photographs causes us to lose depth perception; for some people, this also loses what makes you attractive in real life.
     
2. Focus on what you're wearing. Even if you're not being photographed, knowing how to present yourself in a way that makes the most of your assets is important. Clothing style and color will impact the photogenic appeal of your photographs.
   
   • Select the right clothes. Color matters for a good photo. Patterns can overwhelm you, horizontal stripes can make you appear too wide (the two dimensional aspect already does this anyway, so don't add to it!), and wearing a single tone can cause you to blend together and appear bland and undefined. Very-closely-spaced stripes or patterns can create weird artifacts in digital photography and photographic processes such as printing. Solids and neutrals work best.
     
   • Wear clothes with colors that suit you. Certain colors complement certain skin tones, while others tend to bring out the worst. Also, take into consideration your hair color. You may have a feel for which colors you look best in, but if not, do some research on colors that suit your complexion and work it out through trial-and-error.
     
   • Avoid red, black or white. Digital cameras can have difficulties with red, and black and white present too much by way of contrast.[3]
     
3. Mind your complexion and grooming. There is a lot you can do to improve on what nature has gifted you with by way of appearance. Fixing up common complexion errors is important for photos.
   
   • Hide your blemishes. The bad thing about photographs is that because they're simply frozen images of one angle in an instant in time, they can't show all your good attributes. The good thing about them is that you can easily hide certain features you don’t like. Be careful with makeup tones: makeup colors appear more intense in photos. There are special principles and techniques for photo modeling that are different from those for looking nice in person (though they'll likely look just overdone, not bizarre, in person); learn and use them for critical applications.[4]
     
   • Keep the shine down. It is so important to keep the shine down in the ever-troublesome T-zone - the top of your nose and your forehead. While this especially important on a warm day, even the coolest among us may get a little sweaty when faced with the lens of a camera.
     
   • Use makeup to cover skin redness, which will stand out in photos.
     
   • A photograph (other than a stereogram) doesn't actually record the shape of anything but leaves it to be subconsciously inferred from patterns of light and shadow. Shading with makeup (there are guides to this) can make even an oddly misshapen face look conventionally beautiful so long as it is not actually in conflict with the actual light and shadow (ideally, use diffused light that doesn't make its own defined shadows; in casual photos and everyday appearance you'll generally look fine).
     
   • Use eye drops to clear redness in your eyes. Staring at a light source for a few moments will reduce your pupil size and reduces the chances of red eye (don't stare directly at the sun though!). If some preparation is involved in the picture-taking process, however, it's best not to rely on a flash, particularly on-camera flash, and large pupils are generally considered more attractive.
     
   • Brush your hair into place. Frizzy or loose hairs can appear messy. On the other hand, the hair should not be apparent--not slicked down thin against the skull and then behind the neck in a ponytail.
     
4. Keep your face in equilibrium. Look at your face in the mirror. That's not actually the face which shows in your photograph. Now stare at your own reflection. After some time your face will reach its "normal" appearance, your "equilibrium" face. Now deactivate your eye region and activate your lip region. Don't clench your teeth; just make sure that your upper and lower jaw molars touch each other. If you smile with your mouth open, don't let your upper lip expose much of your gums, or let your lower lip cover far over the bottom of your upper teeth. Always smile if your complexion is dark or dull and your smile should be a slight one. At the same time, stress the corners of your eyes and raise your eyebrows a little. Practice this exercise every day before mirror for a few minutes. In one month, it will become a habit whenever someone tries to take a photograph of you.
   
5. Work the angles. Camerawork isn't all a mystery: people who are photographed for a living are keenly aware of which angles and poses work best for them, and they ensure that this is what they present to the camera most times. In addition, there are a few "model's tricks" you can use to your advantage:
   
   • Determine your best angle. Finding the right angle for your face can be challenging. Experiment using a digital camera so you see the results of each pose immediately. It will very quickly become obvious which angles are most flattering for you. Once you're aware of this, use the best angles as much as possible in the future.
     
   • The classic model's pose is to arrange your body three quarters toward the camera with one foot in front of the other and one shoulder closer to the camera than the other. Women tend to do this naturally, but it's harder for men, who tend to present a square angle front-on to the camera.[5] If you turn your head slightly to the side and look straight ahead, you will appear to be looking straight at the viewer of the photo no matter the viewing angle (like George Washington on the US one dollar bill). Making it appear too like a model isn’t the best pose for everybody, however, and it can look a little overdone when used in a family photo right next to your Uncle Wilbur.
     
   • If sitting, slightly angle yourself.[6]
     
   • Try looking slightly above the camera when the picture is taken. If the photographer is at a lower level look more or less directly forward, not at the camera, so your eyes aren't mostly closed. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis always used this technique for photographs and portraits. Additionally, it helps reduce the "red eye" effect.
     
   • Lean slightly toward the camera; it adds interest, improves facial definition and helps to minimize the appearance of wrinkles and flabby skin. Just keep your chin tucked down.[7]
     
6. Get rid of a double chin. Tilt your head up slightly and try to position yourself so that the camera is a little above, or at, your eye level. This will hide a double chin effectively. You can also put one hand under your chin as though you’re resting your head on your hand (keep the thumb side of your hand out of the camera’s view, if possible). Don't actually rest any weight on the hand, however, or you will push the skin into an unflattering position. Also, try resting your tongue against the roof of your mouth.
   
7. Focus on your posture. Not only does this matter for photos but daily good posture makes everything easier in life, including your confidence. Good posture can dramatically improve your appearance in pictures. Sitting or standing up straight will make you look healthier and more alert and, if in a group setting, and more attractive than your slouching companions. Breathe normally and relax your shoulders. If you usually have bad posture, it may be difficult to stand up straight and not look stiff, so practice this in the mirror, working toward improving your posture in the long term.
   
8. Relax. The more comfortable and relaxed you appear, the better the photo will turn out. Many people end up looking odd in photos because they freeze into odd facial expressions with a “say cheese" type of smile on their face. When smiling, try a relaxed closed-mouth smile or an open-mouth smile with the lower lip relaxed and down, not up for a smile that gets oddly narrower toward the middle--practice in front of a mirror. If you're used to having bad pictures taken of yourself, you probably get nervous in front of the camera, and this can make things even worse. If you know a picture is about to be taken, take a deep breath and exhale naturally, relaxing your arms and shoulders. As you exhale, smile or strike whatever pose is appropriate.
   
   • Don't hold your breath, either in or out, otherwise you'll appear as though you're tense or suffocating.
     
   • If you see the photo coming too late, don’t panic and try to strike a pose. Keep doing what you're doing and try to ignore the camera. It may not turn out perfectly, but you’ve got a better chance than if the camera catches you quickly trying to change your facial expression.
     
   • Relax your lip (mouth) region and don't have any delirious thoughts filled with gloom. It's a natural way to appear fresh and appealing in photographs.
     
   • Don't be so relaxed that you appear distracted. Distraction or annoyance always shows in the photograph. Just relax and your picture will be perfect.
     
9. Think happy thoughts. An unnatural, forced smile can make you look stiff and, frankly, weird. When people are smiling and waiting for a photo to be snapped, their facial muscles can be caught in all sorts of strange positions. To remedy this, try to time your smile so that you don't have to hold it for too long. Also, imagine something funny (don't be afraid to laugh a bit, even) or think of someone—your spouse or child, for example—who makes you happy. By doing so, you’ll get a genuine smile. If you don't like your smile or your teeth, try a more subdued, closed- or partially-closed-mouth smile. Regardless of how you choose to smile, the happier and more relaxed you are, the better.
   
   • Smile with your eyes. Nothing projects happiness and beauty like smiling eyes: a happy, somewhat mischievous expression of the eyes. To achieve this effect, imagine that the camera is a person you have a crush on walking into the room. This will create wider open eyes and a relaxed, three-quarter smile. Think about your crush or lover; this will make you blush making your cheeks rosy red. Chances are you unconsciously do this all the time; the trick is to be able to bring it out on demand, so practice the smiling eyes in front of a mirror, and creating a smile "trigger".
     
   • Fake it till you make it. People are often photogenic because they like having their picture taken. They are therefore relaxed and happy when the camera appears. If you cannot muster up genuine love of the camera, pretend you like the camera. Imagine the camera is someone you love, a long lost friend, an old flame, your child at age three, or whatever you need to look at the camera lovingly. Try it — it really does work.
     
10. Improve the photography situation itself. Whether it's the location, the photographer, or the after-photo skills, there are some external things you can change to improve your chances of appearing photogenic.
    
    • Pick the right location. Obviously if you're having your picture taken on vacation, you can't randomly decide that you want to have your picture taken somewhere else entirely. However, you can guide your photographer to where you want the photos taken. Sometimes, it's best to have a photo taken against a plain background but if you're on vacation, make allowances to capture some of the scenery. In this case, try to take it outside with natural light. You'll naturally look radiant and still stand out from the stunning background. The best times for good light are early morning and evening; a golden glow on your face can work wonders.
      
    • Get a better photographer. (Or, find a friend who is a photo hobbyist and help him or her make better pictures.) Professional photographers know how to bring out the beauty in every person. You can't always choose your photographer, but sometimes you can. If you need headshots for modeling, get the best professional you can find. If you're going to put up a shot for an online dating service, choose a photo that is recent, that flatters you, but most importantly choose a photo that actually looks like it is you. Suggest a photographer friend:
      
      • Use a telephoto lens or zoom out, and move back. This avoids the nose being proportionately much closer to the camera, and being overly magnified relative to the rest of your face. This also will make the background more defocused and less distracting. (To accentuate that, have him set a wider aperture if possible.)
        
      • Optimize the lighting. Try fill flash (set the flash at a weaker level than the primary light source, such as sunlight) or multiple lights at varying power (such as with slave flashes; special kinds are necessary for digital cameras which often make a weak "pre-flash" to check exposure before opening the shutter and firing at full power) for soft but varied light for a pleasant rounded appearance of face parts. There are many web sites and books about portrait and fashion photography lighting. The basic arrangement of the lights, not the cost, is what matters.
        
      • Use more contrast for men (the wrinkles and pores are often considered interesting or tough), less for women.
        
    • Ask the photographer to have the camera at eye level or only just above eye level. This allows for the most natural, flattering photo. If the lens is lower, your shot risks showing a double chin.
      
    • Edit or enhance photos. If you've tried everything, but you still can’t seem to get a good picture of yourself in any environment, try retouching your digital photos. Changing the lighting effects or filter effects, for example, can dramatically improve the appearance of your complexion.
      
    • Choose Side Lighting - photographers know this trick, so be aware of it! Indoors try to stand where the lighting falls on your good side. Outdoors try to get your picture taken in the morning or afternoon, not noon. Don't face the sun or get backlit by it unless the photographer asks you to. Backlit effects can look good, but you can't tell how it looks, so trust the camera person (or check on a digital camera). Side lighting makes everyone's features pop out better than front lighting. Try to talk your friends and relatives into taking pictures without flash, the front lighting from flash is the number one offender for unflattering family photos. You can demonstrate this by snapping their photos with or without it. (If they know more than average about cameras, ask for subtle "fill flash", particularly for women, or "bounce flash" with a fancy removeable flash.)
      

Video

Tips

• Study pictures of models and other photogenic people. If appropriate for your personality, experiment with mimicking their poses and angles.
  
• Always aim to stand or sit at a slight angle to the camera.
  
• Model photos are not what family members or friends are looking for in a picture. Don't overdo the modeling poses.
  
• When in a seated group shot, be sure the chairs are placed as close together as possible. Instead of leaning in, sit up straight and relax.
  
• Have your close friends look at the pictures you've taken to help you ascertain when you look your best. Sometimes, a critical second set of eyes is a great help.
  
• People with highly animated faces stand a better chance of getting captured during a transient grotesque expression. Frame-by-frame video is a great way to see significant differences between the photogenic and the not-so-photogenic.
  
• Practice smiling in front of the mirror. In no time you'll know which smile looks fake and which is the most flattering. Learning how your face moves will help when someone grabs for the camera. Smile using your top row of teeth: it may feel unnatural but a smile with both rows of teeth can easily look fake.
  
• Keep your tongue behind your teeth.
  
• If it is a full-length shot, position your body 45 degrees from the camera, then turn your head towards the lens. Stand with one foot crossed in front of the other and put all your weight on your back leg. This pose is very slimming and universally flattering.
  
• While being photographed, try to keep all body parts as close to your torso and face as possible, as anything protruding directly at the camera will seem huge in the photo. The one exception is that some women often hold their arms just a couple inches or centimetres away from their body because holding them too close can exacerbate the look of flabby upper arms.
  
• Three seconds before the shutter clicks, have your head down, and then slowly bring it up. Don't jerk your head, though that may work. Smile while bringing your head up. When the picture is taken, your mouth should be in a fully relaxed smile. This way, your face is fully relaxed. Relax your eyes for the photo and feel relaxed. This may not work for all, so experiment when finding your photo taking style.
  
• Don't look at the camera; look through it.
  
• If taking your own photos, on a webcam, phone camera, digital camera or someting else, this takes practice. You'll need to learn the correct angle you want to take it at, so you can move your hand to the position.
  
• Normal photographs are two dimensional, losing depth perception, making the subject look wider. For some individuals, this also makes the subject look more attractive.[8] Interestingly, stereo 3D photos don't have a problem with "photogenicity" because the depth perception is maintained. You'll look as great as you do in real life![9]
  
• If you have back trouble and can't physically achieve good posture, practice in front of the mirror till you find a way to make it look like an attractive slouch. Try leaning on something, turn, make it look natural.
  
• Have a good backround.
  

Warnings

• Avoid saying cheese or anything else; doing this can produce a grin. Use the happy thoughts technique instead.
  
• Make sure your photos look like you. These steps can help you better capture your natural beauty in pictures, but if you end up doctoring your photos too much you’re liable to look like someone you’re not. While you want to put your best face forward for online dating sites or acting headshots, you also want to make sure you accurately represent yourself. If you don’t, dates and potential employers may feel deceived.
  
• Sucking in your stomach will cause you to appear unattractive because your ribs may poke through your shirt. Worse, it will make you look slightly uncomfortable, which is never appealing.
  
• Tilting your head down slightly can sometimes create the effect of a double-chin, rather than hiding one.
  

Things You'll Need

• Plain, neutral colored clothes
  
• Grooming items
  
• Suitable locations
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Look Like a Model
  
• How to Pose for Portraits
  
• How to Dress to Make Yourself Look Skinnier
  
• How to Smile
  
• How to Have a Great Photoshoot
  
• How to Look Appealing in Front of Your Crush
  

Sources and Citations

1. ↑ Wikipedia, Photogenic, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photogenic
2. ↑ Mission 3-D Blog, Are you photogenic in stereo 3D photographs?, http://blog.mission3-dgroup.com/2009/01/16/are-you-stere3d-photogeni/
3. ↑ Digital Camera Tracker, 5 Steps to Being More Photogenic, http://www.digitalcameratracker.com/5-steps-to-being-more-photogenic/
4. ↑ http://www.sideroad.com/Beauty/make-up-for-photography.html
5. ↑ Digital Camera Tracker, 5 Steps to Being More Photogenic, http://www.digitalcameratracker.com/5-steps-to-being-more-photogenic/
6. ↑ Digital Camera Tracker, 5 Steps to Being More Photogenic, http://www.digitalcameratracker.com/5-steps-to-being-more-photogenic/
7. ↑ Digital Camera Tracker, 5 Steps to Being More Photogenic, http://www.digitalcameratracker.com/5-steps-to-being-more-photogenic/
8. ↑ Mission 3-D Blog, Are you photogenic in stereo 3D photographs?, http://blog.mission3-dgroup.com/2009/01/16/are-you-stere3d-photogeni/
9. ↑ Mission 3-D Blog, Are you photogenic in stereo 3D photographs?, http://blog.mission3-dgroup.com/2009/01/16/are-you-stere3d-photogeni/

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Be Photogenic. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to Buy a Digital Camera

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Are you looking for a digital camera but confused by all the features, doodads and tech talk? Here's some help in sorting out what's the best one for you.

Steps

1. While brand names can help you make a decision based on reliability or quality of picture, remember that sometimes an inexpensive camera will satisfy your needs as well as a more expensive one.
   
2. Decide if you want a point and shoot or a digital SLR: Are you comfortable with wading through menus to change basic settings? Or would you rather just press a button? Point and shoot digital cameras may be easier to use, but digital SLR cameras provide you with much more creative control.
   
3. Get a grip: Even some larger cameras have uncomfortably small hand grips. The grip should just fill the inside curve of your fingers. Many small cameras have no grip at all. Will you get a major finger cramp just trying to hold on?
   
4. Don't get too hung up on the megapixels: The quality of the pixels is the main difference in image quality. A high quality 6 megapixel sensor will produce better quality photographs than a lesser quality 10 megapixel camera. Lens quality and camera responsiveness are far more important. A good 5 or 6 megapixel sensor is more than enough to create good quality 8x10 prints.Don't get to hung up on a 1 or 2 megapixel difference. The images will be virtually indistinguishable from one to the other. If you compare a 8 megapixel camera to a 10 megapixel camera with equal quality sensors the difference in resolution will not be significant.
   
5. Consider your need for speed: Many cheap cameras have a substantial time lag between pressing the button and actually taking the picture. If you're going to take photographs of your kids, or sports and action photos, this is something to think about. Also, consider the continuous frame rate. For action shots, a continuous frame rate of at least 5 frames per second is desirable. The camera should be capable of taking 5 frames per second, for at least four seconds before the internal memory buffer is filled. Cameras with slower continuous frame rates or smaller internal memory buffers will be frustrating, and make certain types of photography difficult, if not impossible.
   
6. Battery type is something to consider: Many cameras use proprietary batteries, rather than standard AA batteries. Consider that someday, the battery that comes with your camera will stop working or get lost, and you will need to obtain a replacement. Your batteries will generally die at the worst possible time. For example the first day of your vacation, or at your daughter's wedding. Proprietary batteries need to be fully charged and ready for use. It's a good idea to have a back up battery charged and ready to use at all times.
   
7. Weight quality vs. quantity: A Digital SLR will give you better quality pictures and can actually be easier to operate than a point and shoot digital camera. However, it will weigh more and cost more. But the end photo quality will be worth it in the long run.
   
8. Memory card format: SD or Secure Digital cards are the most popular card format in consumer cameras, they are available in capacities of up to 32GB. It should be noted that some older models are not SDHC complient, so they can not use SD cards larger than 2GB. Compact Flash cards are the standard in higher end SLRs, and are available in capacities up to 32GB as well. The Compact Flash card format has been in constant use since its inception in 1994, Compact Flash drives and related software drivers are compatible with nearly all operating systems.
   
9. Figure in the accessories: Most cameras don't come with a memory card or a card reader. Add them in when you're totalling cost. And don't forget batteries. Get an extra set and a charger. Choose a memory card with enough capacity to hold at least 400 images at the camera's highest JPEG resolution. This is equivalent to 11 rolls of 36-exposure film, and is adequate for most people.
   
10. Make room for zoom: With zoom you can switch between close up and a distant point. There is a very important thing to think about when buying a camera and that is the difference between optical and digital zoom. Optical zoom uses the lens it self to bring more distant objects closer. That means that you get better-quality pictures taken from a distance while digital zoom works by capturing only the central portion of the entire image received by the sensor. It basically means that the digital zoom is really only a cropping tool. Digital zooms only use a portion of the image sensor so the more you zoom the less image sensor you are using. This results in a much lower image quality. An optical zoom is much better and uses the entire image sensor resulting in, no loss of image quality. Don't get fooled with advertisements about digital zooms. It's the optical zoom you should be looking for.
    

Video

Tips

• Image Stabilization: With this feature, you can zoom in on your kids on stage 10 rows back (turn off the flash)and get a nice clear picture. Cameras without it will blur when you zoom or shake the camera while pressing the shutter.
  
• When buying a camera take a good look at memory card prices. Computer shops and office supply shops tend to be a lot cheaper than camera shops
  
• On cameras with a substantial internal buffer (most medium or high-end models) you won't notice much improvement in speed between normal and high speed cards unless you do action photography.
  
• Look at the lens on the front of the camera - generally a bigger the piece of glass in front will translate to more light gathering capability, which in turn means better performance in low light situations. This is not a hard and fast rule, more like a rule of thumb.
  

Warnings

• Do NOT trust websites which impartially test the model you're looking at. There are a lot of self-styled experts who are cheerleaders for one brand or another. Look for evidence, not opinion.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Copy a Whiteboard With Your Digital Camera or Camera Phone Using ScanR
  
• How to Make a Webcam Into an Infrared Camera
  
• How to Get Perfect Exposures Using Your Camera's Spot Meter
  
• How to Organize Your Digital Photos
  
• How to Appreciate the Art of Film
  
• How to "Ipodize" a Photo
  
• How to Choose a Digital Video Camera
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Buy a Digital Camera. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Headshot Secrets

Headshot Secrets: An Acting Career Course from Bob Fraser that shows actors how to improve their headshots and get better results from every mailing. It\'s not about the photographer - it\'s abou the actor in front of the camera!