How to Photograph a Sunset

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit


Everyone has seen them. Stunning pictures of gleaming sunsets, rich with colour and warmth that seems to reach out beyond the boundaries of the photograph. Whether you're taking an evening stroll across the beach, or just sitting in your local park, this guide will make these breath-taking images possible for everyone.

Steps

1. Get out there early. You never know when the best and most beautiful light is going to happen, but it usually happens in a one-minute window, which can be any time within 15 minutes before and after sunset (this, plus the half-hour window at sunrise, is what the folks in Hollywood call "magic hour"[1]). Consequently, you want to be on location at least half an hour before the sun sets, to give you time to look around and set up.
   
2. Set up your camera. Alternatively, don't, and skip the technical trivia below if it bores you; some proficiency with these things is useful, but not essential. More important is being out there at the right time. With that said...
   
   
    
   • Play with exposure compensation (the feature of your camera that makes pictures lighter or darker). You want to make sure that you don't end up with large parts of your sky blown out to pure white. Remember, on digital cameras, you can always recover from all but the most terminal underexposure.
     
   
   
    
   • Set your ISO to its lowest setting on digital cameras. The sky at sunset is still bright enough that you can get away with doing this. It'll also give you much more latitude for correcting underexposure, as per the above (since doing this in post-processing inevitably brings out any noise present). Don't increase it unless you have to.
     
    
    
    
   
   • Set your white balance; again, this only applies to digital cameras. Many cameras do a reasonable job of this in "Auto". Others don't; they may see too much red in your scene and try to balance it out (which is not what you want -- the whole point of being out there is to capture these great colours). "Daylight" or "shade" settings are a good bet, but you'll doubtless want to experiment with this. Every camera is different, and some are much smarter than others. Which brings us around to the last point.
     
   
   
    
   • Get to know your camera. Few cameras will get a perfect exposure all the time, and many will require tweaking every time. Some cameras are smarter about photographing sunsets than others. Many will require some degree of exposure compensation. If you're using center-weighted or spot metering, you may find it useful to meter on one of the brighter (but not the brightest) parts of the sky, use your auto-exposure lock, and then recompose.
   
   
   
3. Get in the right place. Move around as much as you can and find the perfect angle. There are an infinite number of angles, locations, and compositions you can play with; some ideas, if you're out of them, follow below.
     
    
   
   • Use reflections off bodies of water, if you're near one. Get down as low to the water as you dare, or do the opposite and go to the highest angle you can get at, to get an entirely different reflection in the water. Try making your picture near-symmetrical, or don't, or try taking a photograph of the sunset through its reflection alone.[2] Experiment!
     
    
    
    
    
   
   • Look for interesting silhouettes. Try silhouetting trees, people, or anything else against the sky or the sun.
     
   
   
   
   
   
   
    
   
   • Play with panoramas, if you don't feel that you're getting enough sky into your picture (this is especially so for those of you with small-sensored digital SLRs). Take several photos with the intent to stitch them together later in software.
     
    
    
    
    
   
   • Try using your flash to illuminate things in unexpected ways. Make sure that your shutter speed doesn't go any faster than your camera's rated flash sync speed; it'll either refuse to fire or (in the case of off-camera flashes) cause a large part of your image to be blacked out (of course, if you're clever about it you can use this to creative effect).
     
   
   
    
   • Experiment with everything. Doing so is free on digital cameras. The more photos you take, the better equipped you will be in future to recognise peak lighting conditions, to figure out what looks good and what doesn't, and so on. If you're on film, shoot as much as you can afford to get developed.
   
   
   
4. Wait for the sun to be in the perfect spot, and then snap a picture (multiple ones if you have the film or memory card space). Exactly what is the perfect moment is a matter for your artistic judgment. If you're out of ideas, try waiting around for the sun to hide behind a cloud; more often than not you will get very visible sun rays coming from the cloud [3].

5. Wait around. Sometimes the most spectacular lighting happens a short while after the sun has gone down. Don't miss it! You don't want to find yourself on the way home (and, worse, stuck in your car) when the sky turns spectacular colours.

6. Develop the film or print out your picture and then enjoy your work of art!

Tips

• Even if it is cloudy or raining, do not freak out! You can use this to your advantage and capture a unique view of the sun setting that is different from the usual (but still beautiful) pictures.
  
• Try using aperture-priority mode on your camera and stopping down a little -- points of light will turn into tiny star shapes, called "sunstars".
  
• Try taking your exposure reading on the sky above the sun with the sun just outside the bottom of your frame. Lock that exposure setting (or set it manually) then recompose your image and shoot. This will only work if you have an auto-exposure lock or the ability to set metered manual exposures; otherwise just use your exposure compensation till it looks right.
  
• Some compact (point-and-shoot) cameras have a mode for photographing sunsets. Try it out.
  
• Sunrises can be every bit as dramatic as sunsets, and there is less distortion in the air. Consider getting up early to photograph a sunrise.
  
• Know that there's no one, perfect, specific time that makes for a perfect sunset picture. It all depends on the amount of light and colors you want to convey in the photograph. Timing is important, but it doesn't have to be exact.
  

Warnings

• The sun can damage your eyes if you are not careful. Never stare at the sun for extended periods of time!
  
• The sun can also damage the sensor of a digital camera over time (less so with sunsets/sunrises when the light levels are lower) so keep that in mind if you plan on being a sun photographer.
  
• You might have difficulty seeing the results on the 2 inch display when you change your settings for each shot. Keep a small notepad handy and jot notes as to how many pictures you took at each setting to help you when you get back to your computer to really look through the pictures.
  

Things You'll Need

• A camera. Use whatever you have; nearly anything with a working meter is capable of taking great photographs at sunset. Just get out there and shoot; the most important thing is being there when the best colour happens. If you're just starting out, a digital camera might well be better here, for the immediate feedback on exposure, white balance and so on that they permit. If all you have is a film camera, then don't worry about it.

• Film, if you're shooting a film camera. Try a slide film like Fuji Velvia or Kodachrome, rather than print (negative) film; you'll get much more dramatic colours. Even the best colours on print film will be at the mercy of the person developing it.[1]
  

 

 

 

 

Related wikiHows

• How to Photograph Fireworks
  
• How to Photograph the Night Sky
  
• How to Make Skies Beautiful with GIMP
  
• How to Photograph Underwater
  
• How to Get a Job As a Photographer for a Newspaper
  

Sources and Citations

• The Importance of Timing, by Ken Rockwell
  

1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 See How to Get Great Colors by Ken Rockwell.
2. ↑ For an example, see this: http://www.tripntale.com/pic/494/25194.
3. ↑ See another example here: http://www.tripntale.com/pic/651/31647.

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Photograph a Sunset. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to Make a Photo Frame

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit

We all have same photo that we want to keep forever. We can make a photo frame for it. It can make the photo look as important in the eyes of others as it is to us. Here are some steps about making a photo frame.

 

 

Steps

• Cut a piece of cardboard into a rectangle (you can decide the frame’s size).

• Cut another rectangle in the middle of the cardboard. The rectangle’ size should be smaller than photo.

• Decorate the frame (follow steps 4,5,6, and 7).

•  You can paint some figures.

• You can make some animals or something you like by papers, and then put them on the frame.

• You also can use cloth or some other stuff.

• You can give free rein to create what you want.

• Cut a piece of paper into a rectangle as big as the frame.

• Stick the paper on the back of frame, and leave one side open so that you can put the photo in.

• Put the picture in the frame so it can look like a big place to put pictures in it.

Video 

 

 

Tips

• You can look at some reference books. They might be useful in providing you with some ideas.
  

Warnings

• Be careful when you use scissors or knife.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Frame a Picture
  
• How to Frame Images from Calendars
  
• How to Make a Book Frame
  
• How to Make a Popsicle Stick Picture Frame
  
• How to Make a Hollow Book
  
• How to Make a Memorial Book

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Make a Photo Frame. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to Create an Inexpensive Photography Lightbox

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit


Good jewelry and close-up photography requires good lighting. However, being able to light a piece properly to show the true color and beauty of it can be difficult. A light box is a great solution. It provides light diffusion and a uniform background against which to place your piece. They can be expensive though. There is a solution, costing as little as $2 (or free if you already have all the materials), using a cardboard box, poster board and some tissue paper. This light box can be used with any light source, and even outdoors.

Steps

• Choose a box appropriate for the size of the objects you will photograph. You may find that you need to make boxes in various sizes.

 

• Secure the bottom of the box with packing tape. Use more packing tape to secure the bottom flaps inside. This will keep them out of the way.

• Lay the box on its side, with the opening facing you.

• Mark lines about 1 inch (2.54 cm) inside each edge of the box on each side and on the top. A standard 12" (30 cm) ruler makes the perfect straight edge and is the right width.

• Using the box cutter, carefully cut along the lines you drew. You can use the ruler as a straight edge to guide your cut. It is not necessary to get the cuts absolutely straight. Notice that the flaps on the front of the box have been left on for now to add stability and make it easier to cut. You may find that taping the front flaps shut makes it easier to cut.

• Cut the front flaps off with a box cutter.

• Cut a section of tissue paper large enough to fit over each of the openings you cut. Then tape it to the outside of the box using cellophane tape. Start with one layer of tissue paper. After completing the box and making some test shots, you may find that you need additional layers of tissue paper to achieve the right lighting.

• Use your box cutter and scissors to remove any stray pieces of cardboard from the front edge of the box.

• Cut a piece of matte white poster board to fit the inside of your box. The piece should be in the shape of a rectangle, with the width being the same as a side of the box, but the length being twice as long.

• Insert the poster board into the box, curving it up towards the top of the box. Curve it gently; don't crease it. Trim it if necessary. This will create an infinite, edgeless look for the background of your shots.

• Cut matte black poster board in sections large enough to cover the tissue paper areas. This will allow you to block light from certain directions when taking photographs.

• Add your lighting. Photo lights, flashes, and even standard desk lamps can be placed on either side or above the box to produce the desired lighting effect.

• Take some test shots as you go to see how well your tissue paper filters and diffuses the light. Add layers of tissue paper as needed. This photo was taken in the example light box, and is not retouched (other than cropping). Now go start taking great photos!

• In the end, your images should come out clean, crisp, and without a ton of gray color throughout. Take a look at this sample image taken from the box this process build.

Tips

• Make sure to use matte and not glossy poster board. Glossy poster board can reflect the light and cause glare.
  
• Try other colors of poster board and even fabric to achieve the desired effect.
  
• You may find that removing the bottom of the box makes it easier to just drop the light box over your subject.
  
• If you take shots straight down from above, cut the bottom of the box like the sides and top, and cover with tissue paper. Then set the box open side down and cut a lens sized hole in what is now the top of the box. That way you can lay out your subject on a piece of white matte cardboard, then drop the box over it, and shoot the photograph through the hole.
  
• If your camera has one, learn how to use its "custom white balance" (WB) feature--this can make all the difference when shooting items in this fashion.
  

Warnings

• Be careful with the box cutter. It's hard to take photos without fingers! Always cut away from yourself and from your hands.
  
• Make sure lights don't start a fire!
  
• Use off camera strobes as well.
  

Things You'll Need

• Cardboard box (size will depend on what you are shooting)
  
• 2-4 sheets of white tissue paper
  
• 1 piece of matte white poster board
  
• 1 piece of matte black poster board
  
• Scotch tape
  
• Packing tape
  
• 12" (30 cm) ruler
  
• pencil or pen
  
• Scissors
  
• Box cutter
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Create a Photography Website
  
• How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Equipment
  
• How to Build a Panoramic Tripod Head
  
• How to Become a Professional Photographer
  
• How to Shoot Slide Film Nature Photography
  
• How to Use Bounce Flash to Improve Your Photography
  

Sources and Citations

• HHHenterprises.com - Source of photos, shared with permission.
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Create an Inexpensive Photography Lightbox. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to Get Into Film Photography on a Tight Budget

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit


Many photographers out there who have grown up on digital cameras want to try film photography, but are reluctant to do so because of the cost of buying a camera and getting film developed. Here, then, is a guide to shooting film on a budget.

Steps

1. Buy a camera and lens cheaply. Check eBay or other online auction sites to find a used camera. There are several things you can do to find the best camera at a good price:
   
   • ]] Buy a cheap plastic autofocus SLR if you already have compatible lenses for it (if you have a digital SLR, for example). Plastic consumer cameras like the Nikon F55 and Canon EOS 300 sell for absurdly low prices. You may look silly shooting them, but the results you will get from these little cameras will be identical to those you would get from a much bigger and heavier professional SLR costing thirty times as much.Beware, however, of lenses that are specifically designed for digital SLRs, which usually have smaller sensors than 35mm film. They either won't mount on your camera (like with Canon lenses marked EF-S), or they won't cover the full 36x24mm frame (Nikon's DX lenses).
     
   • Basic autofocus zoom lenses a few years old are also inexpensive used. They are not good for low light, and not great in the moderately low light their maximum apertures permit, but about as good as any others at f/8 to f/16 (past that, diffraction limits the resolution of all lenses) except in trivial cases such as with brick walls. Autofocus lenses can help you save money from wasted pictures if you have trouble focusing manually, and are much better for moving subjects (which autofocus film SLRs can track and predict, though digital SLRs are much better for capturing single decisive moments reliably through bursts of photos, such as in sports).
     
   • and 50mm f/1.8, sell for absurdly cheap prices.]] Buy into an obsolete system. Demand for lenses from obsolete camera systems, meaning those completely incompatible with today's digital SLRs, is much lower, because nobody is buying them for use with digital. A couple of examples are Canon FD mount cameras (like the Canon A-1 and T90) and Minolta manual-focus cameras.
     
   • Buy simple prime lenses. "Prime" means a lens of a fixed focal length (i.e. not a zoom). "Simple" means lenses that are easy to manufacture. Very wide, and/or very fast, lenses cost more because they need very complex optics; lenses of sensible speed in normal focal lengths don't require complex optics and, consequently, are much cheaper. Best of all, these will permit you to shoot in less light and get sharper pictures than you would with a slower, more expensive, and heavier zoom lens. Look around for a 28mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.8 (or f/2 if you're looking at Pentax), and 135mm f/2.8.
     
   • Alternatively, don't buy a camera. You probably already know several people who have an old, unused film camera or two whom you might be able to convince to lend one to you, or even give it to you.
     
2. Shoot colour negative film. Colour negative film can be developed very cheaply just about anywhere; slide film requires a very different process called E-6, which only a very small number of photo labs do. You won't get the same punchy colours that you can get on slide film (though some negative films, like Kodak Ektar 100, come close), but then you won't need to take out a bank loan to pay for each roll to be developed, either. On the other hand, the slides only need processing and then can be directly seen on a projector but with film you might want prints, which can be expensive. (If you intend to scan to digital, you only need the negatives.)If you like the look of black-and-white film, there are a couple of films that can be developed in the standard C-41 process used for colour negative films. Look for Kodak BW400CN (relatively low-contrast, great for people photos) and Ilford XP2 (high contrast).
   
   • Slide film has a much smaller exposure latitude and thus a much greater failure rate than print film except where one is consistently very precise, which doesn't suit many kinds of subjects. Projecting slide film destroys it in a matter of hours; regular slide shows do gradually consume the pictures' longevity.
     
3. Stick to 35mm. While other film formats will offer more surface area (and, consequently, more resolution, and less grain at a given enlargement), many minilabs will not be able to develop and/or scan it, which means you'll have to go to a much more expensive lab to get it developed.
   
   • Proper technique with a slow film such as Fuji Velvia or Kodak Ektar, correct exposure, a moderate aperture, and a moderate shutter speed or tripod, can produce very sharp, fine-grained photos with an old 35mm SLR or even a nice point-and-shoot (which should choose a moderate or small aperture and a moderate to high shutter speed on its own in bright light).
     
4. Buy lots of film. Buy as much as you can afford. Like everything else, buying things in bulk works out much cheaper. Also, if you buy film that is close to the expiration date it's cheaper. Wrap it tight in plastic and throw it in the freezer. It will keep for years. Just make sure you defrost it in the plastic--otherwise you'll get condensation on the film.
   
   • Even kept in a freezer, film eventually deteriorates and high-speed film - ISO 400 and above -- deteriorates faster. Long-expired film isn't worth the trouble of shooting and the cost of developing unless one wants special effects technically poorer than a cheap digital camera's photos.
     
5. Don't buy a scanner. Your lab owns some incredibly expensive equipment and nearly all of them will have a scanner built into their minilab. Most labs will get great results with their automated scans. Shop around.
   
6. Shoot film for what it's best at. Film is ill-suited to action (sports, moving wildlife, and so on) that require split-second timing and usually need several shots taken in a second. That gets expensive; get a digital SLR for that kind of thing. On the other hand, film is great for stills, like landscapes, statues, and plants.
   
7. when the light is good. (Shot with a Pentax ZX-M on Fuji Sensia 400.]] Get out when the light is good. Meaning, don't shoot in boring midday sunlight. Great light happens in the early morning and late evening, within about a one-hour window before and after sunset and sunrise. The better the light, the fewer mediocre pictures you'll take, which means more winners per roll, which means you're not blindly shooting tons of film in the hope of getting one or two good ones, which saves you money!
   
8. Think before you shoot. Rather than blindly shooting, learn to see. Spend a few minutes refining and simplifying your composition. More winners per roll means you'll be spending less on film.
   
9. Shoot a frame at a time. If you've got a motor-driven camera, set it to its single-frame mode. If you've got an add-on motor drive, leave it at home (or keep it on your camera but turn it off, because they look seriously cool). You can easily find yourself taking several shots of the same thing if you have some film-burning motor-driven monster. Your roll won't go as far, which means you'll be wasting money.
   
10. If you are unsure about exposure, such as with a backlit subject, err toward overexposure with color print film (unless the shutter speed would have to be so slow as to cause blur). If you want a darker picture you can adjust it on a computer, but you can't add detail that isn't there. Two or three stops over shouldn't blow out most of the highlights badly. (You could bracket exposure, but this is an article about how to get decent results for cheap.)
    
11. Don't get prints. If you're looking to show off your work on the Internet, the following process usually works out quite a bit cheaper: Just get your scans toasted to a CD, and if there are some you really like you can always get them printed later at a very reasonable price. The pharmacy CVS, the warehouse store Costco, and the mail-order processor Dwayne's Photo will inexpensively process and scan film without printing it. Costco and Dwayne's Photo tend to have multiple knowledgeable staff at any given time and use higher resolution.
    
12. Go for a longer development time. Unless you're terminally impatient, rather than go for one-hour developing, get it developed next-day, or maybe over a few days if you're extremely patient.On the other hand, some labs will give you a free film if you go for one-hour developing. Sometimes these give superb results, so take one for a spin.
    

Things You'll Need

• Online auction account
  
• Film camera
  
• Film
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Shoot Film
  
• How to Get Into Photography on a Budget
  
• How to Become a Professional Photographer
  
• How to Do Landscape Photography
  
• How to Clean a 35mm Film Camera and Lens
  

Sources and Citations

• 
  
• Lewis Collard, How to get great results from film cameras, http://lewiscollard.com/cameras/shooting-a-real-camera/. Original source, shared with permission.
  

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Get Into Film Photography on a Tight Budget. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

How to Take Better Photographs

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit


Many people think they'll improve their photography by buying a spiffy new camera. The truth is, in photography, technique is much more important than equipment. And taking good pictures is something anyone can do with any camera, if you practice enough and avoid some common mistakes.

Steps

1. Read the camera's manual, and learn what each control, switch, button, and menu item does. At the very least you should know how to turn the flash on, off, and auto, how to zoom in and out, and how to use the shutter button. Some camera's come with a printed beginners manual but also offer a larger manual for free on the manufacturer's website
   
2. Set the camera's resolution to take high quality photos at the highest resolution possible. Low-resolution images are more difficult to digitally alter later on; it also means that you can't crop as enthusiastically as you could with a higher-resolution version (and still end up with something printable). If you have a small memory card, get a bigger one; if you don't want to or can't afford to buy a new one, then use the "fine" quality setting, if your camera has one, with a smaller resolution.
   
3. Start off with setting your camera to one of its automatic modes, if you have a choice. Most useful is "Program" or "P" mode on digital SLRs. Ignore advice to the contrary which suggests that you operate your camera fully manually; the advances in the last fifty years in automatic focusing and metering have not happened for nothing. If your photos come out poorly focused or poorly exposed, then start operating certain functions manually.
   
4. Take your camera everywhere. When you have your camera with you all the time, you will start to see the world differently; you will look for and find opportunities to take great photographs. And, of course, you will end up taking more photographs; and the more you take, the better a photographer you will become.[1] Furthermore, if you're taking photographs of your friends and family, they will get used to you having your camera with you all the time. Thus, they will feel less awkward or intimidated when you get your camera out; this will lead to more natural-looking, less "posed" photographs. Also, remember to bring batteries or charge it if you are using a digital camera.
   
5. Get outside. Motivate yourself to get out and take photographs in natural light. Take several normal 'point and shoot' pictures to get a feel for the lighting at different times of the day and night. Go outside at all times of day, especially those times when anybody with any sense is sleeping, eating, or watching television; lighting at these times is often dramatic and unusual to many people precisely because they never get to see it!
   
6. Keep the lens clear of caps, thumbs, straps and other obstructions. It's basic, yes, but it can ruin a photograph completely. This is less of a problem with modern live-preview digital cameras, and even less of a problem with an SLR camera. But people still make these mistakes from time to time.
   
7. Set your white balance. Put simply, the human eye automatically compensates for different kinds of lighting; white looks white to us in almost any kind of lighting. A digital camera compensates for this by shifting the colors certain ways. For example, under tungsten (incandescent) lighting, it will shift the colours towards blue to compensate for the redness of this kind of lighting. The white balance is one of the most critical, and most underused, settings on modern cameras. Learn how to set it, and what the various settings mean. If you're not under artificial light, the "Shade" (or "Cloudy") setting is a good bet in most circumstances; it makes for very warm-looking colors. If it comes out too red, it's very easy to correct it in software later on. "Auto", the default for most cameras, sometimes does a good job, but also sometimes results in colours which are a little too cold.[2]
   
8. Set a slower ISO speed, if circumstances permit. This is less of an issue with digital SLR cameras, but especially important for point-and-shoot digital cameras (which, usually, have tiny sensors which are more prone to noise). A slower ISO speed (lower number) makes for less noisy photographs; however, it forces you to use slower shutter speeds as well, which restricts your ability to photograph moving subjects, for example. For still subjects in good light (or still subjects in low light, too, if you're using a tripod and remote release), use the very slowest ISO speed that you have.
   
9. Compose your shot thoughtfully. Frame the photo in your mind before framing it in the viewfinder. Consider the following rules, but especially the last one:
   
   • Use the Rule of Thirds, where the primary points of interest in your scene sits along "third" lines. Try not to let any horizon or other lines "cut the picture in half."[3]
     
   • Get rid of distracting backgrounds and clutter. If this means you and your friend have to move a little so that a tree does not appear to be growing out of her head, then do so. If glare is coming off the windows of the house across the street, change your angle a bit to avoid it. If you're taking vacation photographs, take a moment to get your family to put down all the junk they may be carrying around with them and to remove backpacks or hip packs as well. Keep that mess well out of the frame of the picture, and you will end up with much nicer, less cluttered photos. If you can blur the background in a portrait, then do so. And so on.
     
10. Ignore the advice above. Regard the above as laws, which work much of the time but are always subject to judicious interpretation -- and not as absolute rules. Too close an adherence to them will lead to boring photographs. For example, clutter and sharply focused backgrounds can add context, contrast and colour; perfect symmetry in a shot can be dramatic, and so on. Every rule can and should be broken for artistic effect, from time to time. This is how many stunning photographs are made.
    
11. Fill the frame with your subject. Don't be afraid to get closer to your subject. On the other hand, if you're using a digital camera with plenty of megapixels to spare, you can crop it later in software.
    
12. Try an interesting angle. Instead of shooting the object straight on, try looking down to the object, or crouching and looking up. Pick an angle that shows maximum color and minimum shadow. To make things appear longer or taller, a low angle can help. If you want a bold photo, it is best to be even with the object. You may also want to make the object look smaller or make it look like you're hovering over; to get the effect you should put the camera above the object. An uncommon angle makes for a more interesting shot.
    
13. Focus. Poor focusing is one of the most common ways that photographs are ruined.[4] Use the automatic focus of your camera, if you have it; usually, this is done by half-pressing the shutter button. Use the "macro" mode of your camera for very close-up shots. Don't focus manually unless your auto-focus is having issues; as with metering, automatic focus usually does a far better job of focusing than you can.
    
14. Keep still. A lot of people are surprised at how blurry their pictures come out when going for a close-up, or taking the shot from a distance. To minimize blurring: If you're using a full-sized camera with a zoom lens, hold the camera body (finger on the shutter button) with one hand, and steady the lens by cupping your other hand under it. Keep your elbows close to your body, and use this position to brace yourself firmly. If your camera or lens has image stabilisation features, use them (this is called IS on Canon gear, and VR, for Vibration Reduction, on Nikon equipment).
    
15. Consider using a tripod. If your hands are naturally shaky, or if you're using very large (and slow) telephoto lenses, or if you're trying to take photographs in low light, or if you need to take several identical shots in a row (such as with HDR photography), or if you're taking panoramic photos, then using a tripod is probably a good idea. For very long exposures (more than a second or so), a cable release (for older film cameras) or a remote control is a good idea; you can use the self-timer feature of your camera if you don't have one of these.
    
16. Consider not using a tripod, especially if you don't already have one. A tripod infringes on your ability to move around, and to rapidly change the framing of your shot. It's also more weight to carry around, which is a disincentive to getting out and taking photographs in the first place. As a general rule,[5] you only need a tripod if your shutter speed is equal to or slower than the reciprocal of your focal length.[6] If you can avoid using a tripod by using faster ISO speeds (and, consequently, faster shutter speeds), or by using image stabilisation features of your camera, or by simply moving to somewhere with better lighting, then do that.
    
17. If you are in a situation where it would be nice to use a tripod, but you don't have a tripod at the time, try one or more of the following to reduce camera shake:
    
    • Turn on image stabilization on your camera (only some digital cameras have this) or lens (generally only some expensive lenses have this).
      
    • Zoom out (or substitute a wider lens) and get closer. This will de-magnify the effect of a small change in the direction of the camera, and generally increase your maximum aperture for a shorter exposure.
      
    • Hold the camera at two points away from its center, such as the handle near the shutter button and the opposite corner, or toward the end of the lens. (Do not hold a delicate collapsible lens such as on a point-and-shoot, or obstruct something that the camera will try to move on its own such as a focusing ring, or obstruct the view from the front of the lens.) This will decrease the angle which the camera moves for a given distance your hands wobble.
      
    • Squeeze the shutter slowly, steadily, and gently, and do not stop until momentarily after the picture has taken. Try putting your index finger over the top of the camera, and squeezing the shutter button with the second joint of the finger for a steadier motion (you're pushing on the top of the camera all along).
      
    • Brace the camera against something (or your hand against something if you're concerned about scratching it), and/or brace your arms against your body or sit down and brace them against your knees.
      
    • Prop the camera on something (perhaps its bag or its strap) and use the self-timer to avoid shake from pushing on the button if the thing it is propped on is soft. This often involves a small chance that the camera will fall over so check that it does not have far to fall, and generally avoid it with a very expensive camera or one with accessories such as a flash that could break or rip off parts of the camera. If you anticipate doing this much, you could bring along a beanbag, which would work well for it. Purpose-built "beanbags" are available, bags of dried beans are cheap and the contents can be eaten when they begin to wear through or get upgraded.
      
18. Relax when you push the shutter button. Also, try not to hold the camera up for too long; this will cause your hands and arms to be shakier. Practice bringing the camera up to your eye, focusing and metering, and taking the shot in one swift, smooth action.
    
19. Avoid red eye. Red-eye is caused when your eyes dilate in lower lighting. When your pupils are big, the flash actually lights up the blood vessels on the back wall of your eyeball, which is why it looks red. If you must use a flash in poor light, try to get the person to not look directly at the camera, or consider using a "bounce flash". Aiming your flash above the heads of your subjects, especially if the walls surrounding are light, will keep red-eye out. If you don't have a separate flash gun which is adjustable in this way, use the red-eye reduction feature of your camera if available - it flashes a couple of times before opening the shutter, which causes your subject's pupils to contract, thus minimizing red-eye. Better yet, don't take photographs which require a flash to be used; find somewhere with better lighting.
    
20. Use your flash judiciously, and don't use it when you don't have to. A flash in poor light can often cause ugly-looking reflections, or make the subject of your photo appear "washed out"; the latter is especially true of people photos. On the other hand, a flash is very useful for filling in shadows; to eliminate the "raccoon eye" effect in bright midday light, for example (if you have a flash sync speed[7] fast enough). If you can avoid using a flash by going outside, or steadying the camera (allowing you to use a slower shutter speed without blur), or setting a faster ISO speed (allowing faster shutter speeds), then do that.
    
    • If you do not intend the flash to be the primary light source in the picture, set it up to give correct exposure at an aperture a stop or so wider than that which is otherwise correct and which you actually use for the exposure (which depends on the ambient light intensity and the shutter speed, which cannot be above the flash-sync speed). This can be done by choosing a specific stop with a manual or thyristor flash, or by using "flash exposure compensation" with a fancy modern camera.
      
21. Go through your photos and look for the best ones. Look for what makes the best photos and continue using the methods that got the best shots. Don't be afraid to throw away or delete photos, either. Be brutal about it; if it doesn't strike you as a particularly pleasing shot, then ditch it. If you, like most people, are shooting on a digital camera, then it would not have cost you anything but your time. Before you delete them, remember you can learn a lot from your worst photos; discover why they don't look good, then don't do that.
    
22. Practice, practice, and practice. Take lots and lots of photos -- aim to fill your memory card, (or to use up as much film as you can afford to have developed, but don't mess with film until you can get decent pictures frequently with a simple digital camera: until then, you need to make many more glaring mistakes to learn from, and it's nice to make them for free and find out immediately, when you can figure out exactly what you did and why under the current circumstances it is wrong). The more pictures you take, the better you'll get, and the more you (and everyone) will like your pictures. Shoot from new or different angles, and find new subjects to take pictures of, and keep at it; you can make even the most boring, everyday thing look amazing if you're creative enough about photographing it. Get to know your camera's limitations, too; how well it performs in different kinds of lighting, how well auto-focus performs at various distances, how well it handles moving subjects, and so on.
    

Video

Try from different Angles

Tips

• Your camera doesn't matter. Nearly any camera is capable of taking good photographs in the right conditions. Even a modern camera phone is good enough for many kinds of shots. [8] Learn your camera's limitations and work around them; don't buy new equipment until you know exactly what these limitations are, and are certain that they are hindering you.
  
• Pick up a big-city newspaper or a copy of National Geographic and see how professional photojournalists tell stories in pictures. It's often worth poking around photo sites like Flickr or deviantART for inspiration, too. Try Flickr's camera finder to see what people have done with the cheapest point-and-shoot cameras. Look at the Camera Data on deviantART. Just don't spend so much time getting inspired that it stops you from getting out there.
  
• When shooting photos of children, get down to their level! Pictures looking down at the top of a child's head are usually pretty lame. Stop being lazy and get on your knees.
  
• If you shoot digital it's better to underexpose the shot, as underexposure is easy to correct later on in software. Shadow detail can be recovered; blown highlights (the pure white areas in an overexposed photo) can never be recovered, as there is nothing there to recover. Film is the opposite; shadow detail tends to be poor compared to digital cameras, but blown highlights are rare even with massive overexposure.[9]
  
• Get your photos off your memory card ASAP. Make backups; make several backups if you can. Every photographer has, or will, experience the heartbreak of losing a precious image/images unless he or she cultivates this habit. Back-up, back-up, back-up!
  
• If the camera has a neck strap, use it! Hold the camera out so that that the neck strap is pulled as far as a can, this will help steady the camera. Furthermore, it'll also stop you from dropping the camera.
  
• Install photo-editing software and learn how to use it. This will allow you to correct color balance, adjust lighting, crop your photos, and much more. Most cameras will come with software to make these basic adjustments. For more complicated operations, consider buying Photoshop, downloading and installing the free GIMP image editor, or using Paint.NET, a free light-weight photo editing program for Windows users.
  
• Keep a notebook handy and make notes about what worked well and what didn't. Review your notes often as you practice.
  
• Upload to Flickr or the Wikimedia Commons and maybe one day you will see your photos used on wikiHow!
  
• To find an interesting angle at a tourist location, look where everybody else is taking their picture, and then go somewhere completely different. You don't want the same picture as everybody else.
  

Warnings

• Beware of taking photographs of statues, artwork, and even architecture; even if it is located in public places, in many jurisdictions this can often constitute a violation of the copyright in these works.[10]
  
• When taking photos of people, their pets, or even their property, ask for permission. The only time you clearly do not need it is when you are capturing a crime in progress. It is always polite to ask.
  

Things You'll Need

• A camera. Whatever you have, or can borrow, will be good enough.
  
• The biggest memory card you can get, if you're on digital, or as much film as you can afford to have developed if you're not.
  

Related wikiHows

• How to Get Up and Start Taking Photos
  
• How to Take A Good Picture On Your Camera Phone
  
• How to Take Portrait Photographs
  
• How to Take Flattering Photos of Yourself
  
• How to Brighten up Backgrounds in Flash Pictures
  
• How to Take Hand Held Pictures Indoors Without Flash
  
• How to Avoid Your Photo Being a Dark Silhouette
  
• How to Have a Great Photoshoot
  
• How to Take a Photo With an SLR Camera
  

Sources and Citations

• Google Picasa - Software for organizing and editing photographs
  
• 7 Common Mistakes When Taking Digital Photos
  
• http://library.thinkquest.org/28146/composition.html Source
  

1. ↑ See 5 Reasons to Take Your Camera Everywhere in 2008.
2. ↑ For more on white balance, see How to Set White Balance by Ken Rockwell.
3. ↑ See the Wikipedia article on the subject for a fuller explanation of this.
4. ↑ From Seven Common Mistakes When Taking Digital Photos.
5. ↑ Shutter speed and the difference between fast and slow shutter speeds.
6. ↑ For example, if you have a 300mm lens, then you want a shutter speed faster than 1/300th of a second.
7. ↑ See Ken Rockwell's page on sync speed for more details on this.
8. ↑ See Your Camera Doesn't Matter by Ken Rockwell.
9. ↑ See Film vs. Digital for a more in-depth discussion.
10. ↑ See this page on the Wikimedia Commons for a country-by-country breakdown of local laws.

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